The Spartacus Guide: The Best “Plebeian” Restaurants in Roma
And now, for something completely different. These are my personal recommendations for restaurants to visit during your excursion to Rome. Amalia and I have been lucky enough to sample at least 75 Roman dining spots over the past few years. We often return to our favourites. We research intensely- review the guides and the never ending number of best restaurant lists on the internet. We explore different neighbourhoods. We have a ton of fun and drink Italian wines with every dinner. We are not trained food critics, but we are not newbies either. We have good taste! We are confident in our choices and pick the brains of Rome foodies and chefs along the way. A labor of love. Some general principles here. First, there is an old saying that it is impossible to have a bad meal in Rome. Unfortunately, this is untrue. There are many mediocre eateries, usually congregated in tourist centric areas. Piazza Navona, Trevi Fountain, the Pantheon, Campo di Fiori, Trastevere are dotted with places that ignore the Roman emphasis on freshness and flavour. Frankly, it is just human nature. Many tourists are on a mission and are always hurrying to the next site or museum. Food, particularly at lunch is not a priority. Restaurant operators want to control costs, make a profit and turn tables. This combination of factors is a death sentence for great food. Avoid these places. Do a little research and legwork and you should develop a short list of wonderful restaurants in the neighbourhoods you will be touring. Prati, Monti, Centro Historico, Testaccio, Trastevere. Ludovisi, San Lorenzo, Flaminia, the Jewish Ghetto- all have numerous high quality options for lunch or dinner.
Today is your lucky day. Follow our recommendations and experience food nirvana. An alert- this list has different criteria than our previously posted Patrician list. Instead of just repeating the gourmet places, the Michelin star winners- I choose to honour traditional Roman restaurants that specialise in classic Roman dishes- prepared in traditional manner. They are loyal to the old playbook, but earn plaudits and recognition because they execute with incredible style and consistency. They employ very few ingredients, carefully selected and skillfully prepared and voila- you are in heaven! The end product is balanced and rich- exquisite really.
The “go to” Roman recipes are featured in almost all of the restaurants that qualify for our lists. We tip our cap to Tuscan, Neapolitan, Emilia Romagna and Puglia with a handful of our choices. No sushi, French or Chinese here although Rome is becoming more international in its restaurant options. The signature Roman dining menu will definitely have most of these pasta options available: Spaghetti Alla Carbonara, Tonnarelli Cacio e Pepe, Bucatini Amatriciana, Pasta all Gricia, Spaghetti Arrabiatta, Gnocchi Alla Romana, Pasta A Ceci. Creative antipasti starters include Carciofi Alla Romana, Carciofi Alla Guidia, Fiore de Zucca, Bruschetta, Zucchini Fritta Alla Romana. Pizza Taglio or Supplì for dining on the run or in the street. Entrees are Veal Saltimbocca, Filetto Di Bacalao. and Porchetta based dishes. Martozzi or gelato (preferably pistachio) for dessert. The wine lists are user friendly and the prices are far more reasonable than in the United States. These menus may appear to be carb centric and calorie creating in the extreme. Fear not, they are healthy. Romans live a long time and you see very few obese locals on the street. You will avoid catastrophic weight gain by adhering to another basic Roman principle and custom- WALK EVERYWHERE! 10,000 steps a day and you can eat and drink to your heart’s desire. You can definitely be lean and mean and embrace a typical Roman diet. My “Best” restaurants follow- it is work in progress and we return to Rome in October.
A final editorial note. I chose Spartacus as my plebeian menu symbol. History buffs will know that Spartacus never achieved Roman citizenship and didn’t even meet the definition of a plebe. He was a slave and the patricians eventually crucified him on the Appian Way. So, I claim the right to artistic license here. I loved the movie and Kirk Douglass ruled! I decided to remind everyone of the greatness of Spartacus by naming this blog entry after him So be it!
THE SPARTACUS GUIDE: THE BEST PLEBEIAN RESTAURANTS IN ROMA.
1). PIERLUIGI: Piazza de Ricci 144.
Best seafood in Rome; cool piazza; great people watching; deep wine list; somewhat pricey.
2). ANTICO ARCO: Piazzale Aurelio; Janiculum Hill location.
Chic; great service; imaginative and creative; warm interior.
3). RISTORANTE DILLA: Via Maria de Fiori 41.
A Stanley Tucci spot; central location; great Cacio e Pepe.
4). ARMANDO AL PANTHEON: Salita dei Crescenzi 31.
The ONLY choice after your Pantheon visit; tough reservation; wonderful people and outstanding food.
5). OSTERIA LA SEGRETA: Via Margutta 82.
Neapolitan and Mediterrean cuisine; seafood deluxe; intimate atmosphere; feel like you are on Amalfi Coast.
6). VLADIMIRO’S: Via Aurora 37.
Old world; recommended to us by former Loyola Director; close to Borghese Gardens and American embassy; you may see our Ambassador.
7). LA TAVERNA DEI FORI IMPERIALI: Via Della Madonna dei Monti 9.
Monti spot; casual; great vibe; super pastas and beautiful presentation; view the Colosseum after dinner.
8). TAVERNA TRILUSSA: Via dei Politeama 23/25.
Best place in Trastevere; great apertivos; pastas prepared table side.
9). IL MARCHESE: Via di Ripetta 162.
Modern, hip, young, vegetarian; great bar; central location.
10). RISTORANTE BOLOGNESE: Piazza del Populo 1.
The best address in town; elegant; formal; Emilia Romagna outpost; Tagliatelle the best.
11). BABETTE’S: Via Margutta 1D.
French and Mediterranean influences; outside dining an option; a hostess who appeared in La Dolce Vita. Fellini lived down the block.
12). MATRICIANELLA: Via Del Leone 4.
A favorite for local Roman elites; truffle pasta; cozy; great wine list; best place in town for long lunches.
13). TRATTORIA DA ENZO AL 29; Via dei Vascellari 29.
Roman classics; great artichokes; get a sidewalk table.
14). RISTORANTE CLOTILDE ROMA: Piazza Cardelli 5A/5B.
Romantic; the waiters are all from Bangladesh; lovely people; slow food prep; since 1996; a great place for insiders.
15). NONNA BETTA: Via del Portico d’Ottavia 16.
Jewish Quarter standout; 19th Century frescoes; Italian/Kosher; great people watching; I love the Carbonara.
16). ROSCIOLI SALUMERIA CON CUCINA: Via dei Grubbonari 21.
Hot ticket; vegetarian; fresh ingredients; they have a bakery. rich and famous hangout. a deli to go.
17). TRAM TRAM: Via dei Reti 44.
Family owned- next to a train line; San Lorenzo; gritty; authentic; run by mother and daughter who appear to be the same age.
18). AD HOC: Via Ripetta 43.
Price fixe menu; fancy; elegant; great service; great location; outstanding service. a winner; may be on the patrician list when I updates these lists next year. Michelin aspirations here.
19). PASTIFICIO SAN LORENZO.
Contemporary; down the street from Soho House; look sharp; food is tremendous.
20). TRATTORIA ANGELINO: Piazza Margana 37.
Venerable establishment; cool piazza; they actually have a photo of Richard Nixon behind the bar; quaint; reliable- wonderful outdoor seating; warm servers.An American favourite.
21). L’ARCANGELO: Via Giuseppe Gioachina Belli 59.
All locals; order the gnocchi; intimate; antique furniture; antique owners; tough reservation- not techno savvy.
22). TRATTORIA DA DANILO: Via Petrarrca 13.
Intimate; rustic; great wine list.
23). COLLINE EMILIANE: Via degli Avignonesi 22.
A Emilia Romagna outpost; spectacular combinations; delightful.
24). TRATTORIA DA CESARE AL CASALETTO: Via del Casaletto 45.
Classic trattoria; carbonara; cool patio.
25). IL CIOCIARO: Via Barletta 21.
Trendy; good spot post Vatican tour day; heart of Prati-cool catacombs vibe.
No pizza places today- we will add to mix later. Have a good day!
