Rome: The Colosseum
I recently identified the finest museums and historical sites in Rome. The Colosseum Archaeological Park- which includes the Roman Forum, The Colosseum and Palatine Hill was near the top of the list. The Colosseum is both an architectural statement and a touchstone for roman culture and therefore requires its own dedicated post. It is the EMBLEM OF ROME, heads above the other classic and imperial marvels in the Eternal City. Internationally it rivals the Pyramids in Egypt, the Taj Mahal in India and the Great Wall of China as a universally recognised representation of a culture and era. Everyone knows the Colosseum.
The Colosseum was a creature of imperial Rome and was explicitly intended to project the glory of Rome and, by association, the power of the Emperors. It was not designed to be subtle. It was the first bold statement of the Flavian Dynasty. Vespasian and Titus established the first post Caesarean imperial line after the disaster of Nero and the chaos the the year of 4 emperors. They were not an old or established Roman family. There were rather middle brow and made their reputation on the battlefield, including the victory in Judea. They were conscious of staying connected to the plebes and governed in a quasi populist style. The Colosseum was their first major infrastructure project and they pulled out all the stops to show the people they belonged in the big leagues. Rome had achieved major expansions of the empire’s territory, but had struggled domestically for 20 plus years. Nero was decadent, murdered his mother, built himself an obscenely expensive pleasure palace and as the saying goes, “Fiddled while Rome burned.” He blamed Christians for the fire and embarked on major persecutions. He was eventually killed by his own Praetorian Guard and a mini civil war followed since he had no heir. The Flavians stepped into this reality and sought stability but also wanted to make their own mark. The Colosseum was their answer. Autocratic leaders love to build big stadiums as a confirmation of their authority.
The Colosseum was designed to take the historical Roman love of festivals, battles, races and contests to a new level. It was a stunning amphitheatre that could hold between 50,000 and 70,000 spectators. A historical quirk- many historians believe the labor force that built the Colosseum were Jewish slaves who had been brought to Rome after Rome conquered Judea and destroyed the Temple in 70AD. A bit like the American slaves building the White House in DC. On completion, the Colosseum was greeted enthusiastically by all classes, analogous to American sports fans celebrating their new sports stadium palaces. As a symbol of of Roman Imperial culture, it is comparable to the role and status associated with the majestic Catholic cathedrals built in the Middle Ages. It was center of the action and a vessel for communicating society’s values.
And what were those values? The heart of the entertainment program in Rome for hundreds of years was gladiatorial combat. Violent and intense gladiatorial contests were featured at smaller amphitheatres that existed in Rome and other imperial cities before the construction of the Colosseum. Julius Caesar and Augustus LOVED the gladiator battles and attended regularly. They viewed them as sacred spectacles. The rituals ratified Roman glory and greatness. Although the gladiators were slaves and had the same social rank as prostitutes and actors, some became as popular and well known as modern sports stars. They developed popular followings. The programs frequently re-enacted great Roman military victories. The productions were “big”, “bold”, “violent” and “bloody". The fans vividly displayed the dark side of humanity by revealing in bloodshed and death. Recall the phrase, “Hail Emperor, we who are about to die salute you.” Fun stuff. Masculinity, virility, and absolute victory were the cornerstones of a Roman’s self definition and controlled violence is part of that package. The Colosseum provided affirmation of those values. Seating was based on social class which confirmed the Roman focus on social hierarchy. At the same time, all citizens were eligible for admission which affirmed that an element of the culture was democratic. Everything had a political purpose- entertain the masses but remind them where the power lies! The glory of Rome was also expressed by the international cast of characters who served as gladiators. Frequently, they were the best warriors from a defeated enemy from abroad. The international scope of Rome’s rule was there for all to see. Great marketing. There was also a weird fascination with exotic animals from the four quarters of the empire. Bears from Scotland, tigers from India, snakes from Asia and giraffes and elephants from Africa all starred in Colosseum productions. A Hollywood producer or rock concert promoter would love access to the big budgets provided by the Emperor.
Visits to historic sites are enriched when you read some history. You can then let your imagination run wild and a pile of rocks or a declining ruin may become a kaleidoscope of vivid images. This potential is particularly true for the Colosseum. Finally, the post imperial pathway for the Colosseum is the usual menagerie of Dark Ages decline and Middle Ages mediocrity. It served as prison, a reform school for prostitutes, a fortress and a Papal retreat house. Major excavations began in the 18th century and the conservation efforts have accelerated in the past 25 years. The guides and exhibits are much better than they were when I was a student in the Nixon administration. Enjoy!!
