Rome: La Dolce Vita
I love Rome. It is my favourite city. I have been blessed with the opportunity to visit on multiple occasions. It began with 4 wonderful months as college student in 1973. From 1980 to 2020, Amalia and I made 4-5 weeklong visits. In 2021, we were based there for 2 weeks- our first post Covid European outing. We then doubled down on a Rome/Italy immersion program with an 8 week visit in 2022 and 10 weeks in 2023. We will return in the fall of 2024 for three months. We certainly don’t qualify as locals, but I am confident our time on the ground in Rome gives us insights not available to a one time tourist visitor. Rome is unique and fascinating- a multi layered experience. All serious global citizens should include an extended trip to Rome in their travel plans. We guarantee no regrets- maybe moments of frustration and confusion, but ultimately a culturally rich interlude. No one has asked for us to step in as licensed guides, but we are pleased to share some observations and recommendations with you.
Rome has been called “The Eternal City.” Its complex history is the cornerstone of its current appeal. The inevitable pleasures associated with your strolls in Rome will be magnified if you have some knowledge of the legendary individuals who previously walked the same streets. The ancient ruins, the inspiring Renaissance architecture, the fountain filled piazzas and the narrow street passages dripping with character create a stunning backdrop- a beautiful mosaic, but I guarantee your sensory experience will be more vivid if you have a working knowledge of Rome's hallowed past. It isn’t simply the breathtaking buildings and churches, but the aura that surrounds them. The world changing events that occurred here make Rome a special international destination. London, Paris, Berlin, Istanbul, Tokyo, Mexico City and New York can also make compelling cases, but Rome is at another level. Read Rome related books before departure- watch the cool movies- but give yourself some context before throwing yourself into the deep end. Rome can be intimidating and overwhelming- certainly chaotic and even decadent. Stay the course! Be patient with my mini history lesson below.
Rome’s narrative goes back 2500 years. We all learned the fable of Romulus and Remus as the city founders. After the Greek classical period of Pericles, Socrates, Plato and Aristotle comes to a messy conclusion, Rome moves to center stage in the development of Western Civilisation. It is ground zero for 600 years. We remember the Republic, the power of the Senate, the Vestal Virgins, the destruction of Carthage, the Cicero- Cataline conspiracy, the Spartacus led slave revolt, the rise of Pompey, Crassus and finally the big enchilada, Julius Caesar. He crosses the Rubicon, the Republic collapses, he becomes dictator and then is assassinated on the Ides of March. Civil War follows and Brutus, Pompey and Marc Anthony perish and Augustus attains power and is our first Roman Emperor. The Imperial Age begins and dictates the progress of humanity- at least western style- for five centuries. Emperors come and go, build and conquer, but Roman institutions prove resilient. Augustus, Antoninus, Hadrian, Trajan, Marcus Aurelius, Constantine are in the Emperor Hall of Fame. Others were mad, bad, dangerous and unwise- the reigns of Nero, Caligula, Domitian, Commodus are notorious for their obvious pathologies. Christians were persecuted, but eventually the Catholic Church became the state religion and Rome the capital of the “spiritual” and "religious” world as well. Alas, eventually internal corruption and outside barbarian invasions led to the fall of the Roman Empire in 476 AD. Today, the echoes of the Classical and Imperial eras are everywhere. The Forum, Palatine Hill, The Colosseum, Capitoline Hill, Aventine Hill, Circus Maximus, the Baths of Caracalla, the Pantheon, Largo Argentina, Theatre Marcellus, Hadrian’s Villa in Tivoli, the Appian Way, Augustus’ Tomb. the aqueducts, the Catacombs are all beckoning you to visit. Embrace them - note that a quality guide can add immense value and make the tours a genuine learning experience.
The “Dark” and “Middle" Ages follow. With the exception of the occasional construction of a new basilica or church, Rome has a “bad” thousand years. A super and extended historical cold streak, a great city in retreat. The classical structures decay, population declines precipitously, cows reside in the Forum and epidemics occur on regular basis. The Church is the official source of authority, but has frequent internal disputes and an unfortunate instinct for corrupt practices. Simply stated, it is not an era of development or progress.
The rebirth of Rome begins with the Renaissance and is followed by the Baroque era. A cultural explosion in the arts, architecture, literature, mathematics, science, music and philosophy. Da Vinci, Michelangelo, Bernini, Palladio, Brunelleschi enter the pantheon of artistic geniuses. The Popes are uneven, a Medici here- a Borgia there but the Church is the primary funding source for the building boom. Powerful and aristocratic Roman families emerge and the majority of the sites featured on your Roman tour today are products of this era. Villa Medici, Doris Pamphlii, Villa Borghese, Trinita di Monti, St Peters Basilica and St Peter’s Square, the Sistine Chapel, Piazza di Spagna, Piazza Navona, Piazza di Popolo, Villa Guila- incredible remnants of a magical time in human history. Florence was actually the original driver of the movement, but all roads ultimately lead to Rome and the capital is now the best representative of the glories of the Renaissance. Savor the opportunity!
The Catholic Church, originally as the Holy Roman Empire and then as The Papal States, was the central political and governmental powerhouse until 1870. The Popes as temporal leaders do not have a compelling record. They resisted modernity, were anti education, didn’t believe in individual rights, and treated their Jewish neighbours poorly. By 1870, the population in Rome was only 250,000- one million souls less than Paris. The infrastructure was deteriorating and there were only 4 bridges traversing the Tiber. The health care system was poor. The clergy leadership did not understand or embrace capitalism and unemployment was 50% and illiteracy was 80%. Garibaldi and the Italian independence movement saw their opportunity and marched on Rome. The Pope’s civil authority over Rome ended in 1870 and the Pope retreated to the Vatican. They didn’t leave for 60 years! Rome then embarked on a period of growth that continued until the outbreak of World War 1 in 1914. Rome became an essential stop on the Grand Tours of the aristocratic classes from continental Europe, England and America. The Borghese Gardens flowered and the leisurely family Sunday stroll became its signature.The grand hotels, many of which remain today, were constructed with style and decorated lavishly. Famous landmarks made their appearance- Trevi Fountain, Palazzo Quirinale, Vid del Corso, Via Condotti, Via Babuino, Campo di Fiori. They are vibrant today.
The last 100 years are topsy-turvy. Two World Wars, a 20 year Fascist regime, a Concordat with the Vatican, the elimination of the monarchy, a nasty German occupation, a more friendly American occupation, rejoining the west thru Nato and the EU, over 100 governments in 75 years -such is the political framework for modern Rome. It is now a tourist mecca. Archaeological excavations, historical preservation (started under Mussolini) are now priorities. The Forum and the Colosseum look better than they did 1000 years ago. City planning is respected and new neighbourhoods like Prati and Parioli have flourished. We have observed the renewal of old working class neighborhoods - Trastevere, Testaccio, Monti and San Lorenzo. Rome has produced cinematic giants- Fellini, Pasolini and Rossellini. The fashion houses are legendary. The shopping is immoral! They make great high performing race cars. The art and music scene is dynamic. Rome is not simply a museum- it is a living and breathing organism.
Rome is not perfect. The traffic is awful. The tourist season, now May 15 thru October 1, is chaotic and wildly overcrowded. Avoid prime time. The leading hotels are New York expensive. There are too many gimmicky tourist traps. You can’t get a bad meal, but you can get a mediocre one. There is a consumerist materialistic vibe in the central district. BUT... no sane person can resist the charms of Rome. It is enthralling, beautiful, provocative, global AND provincial. It is an excellent base to visit Ostia, Pompeii, Assisi, Orvieto, Castelgandolfo, Castelli Romani, Naples, Amalfi and Capri. It is has an air of decadence but remains a place for the ages.
We will discuss the museums, churches, and restaurants that should be on your “can’t miss” list for your future visit to Rome. Assume a joyful attitude. Don’t take my advice on mastering the history too seriously. You can go a completely different direction. Remember - Seinfeld was a great show that was essentially “about nothing.” Audiences just loved the spontaneous narratives and hilarious exchanges. You were always surprised! Rome has the same potential- you don’t need to over plan each day! Leave your hotel- turn right or left- go a couple of hundred yards- turn again- follow this pattern for eight hours- you will be amazed by the wondrous sights you will see- the world is your oyster. Have a cappuccino in the morning and wine with lunch. It is the best place to “do nothing” in the entire world. You can’t make a major error. See you soon!
